BIOME
Biome Designed by Mollie Green
Biomaterials give a whole new meaning to the word sustainability. Creatives all over the world are using innovative technology, traditional knowledge, and natural sources to develop sustainable textiles for the fashion industry. Biomaterials were originally developed in Egyptian times for natural wound treatments. Later they were developed to represent fabrics such as Leather and fur enabling the industry to cut impactful materials from the environment. Climate change, pollution, and water contamination are some of the few battles we are facing, and biomaterials could be our way out. In the not-so-distant future biomaterials made from plant leaves, food waste, and grown microorganisms may replace animal-delivered textiles because let’s be honest, there is nothing ‘normal’ about clothing made from animal skin.
Mollie Green is a Norwich University of the Arts fashion student dedicating her final project to the weird and wonderful world of biomaterials. With a specific interest in sustainability and skin health, she is approaching her project from a completely new point of view. Her final collection stems from her interest in nature, a reflection of her childhood. In an interview with Mollie, she expands on the root of her ideas “I enjoyed nothing more than being outside, making potions and mud pies in my nans garden. I believe that’s where my fascination for creating things from nature has derived from”. It appears that the development of biomaterials quenched that intriguing side of Mollie's personality “I was always seen as quite a gross kid, engaging with the human impulses that make you want to squish something or poke something slimy”. With the fashion industry being one of the most polluting industries, Biomaterials opened Mollie's eyes to the future of fashion and the possibilities we have to create a more sustainable future for those who come after us.
Months of research into recipes, ingredients, and designs with lots of trial and error curated “biome” (biome-me) a zero-waste collection. Made to harness a circular approach to fashion garments, the collection is recyclable, biodegradable, and even edible. Mollie explains that the biomaterial mixture starts using Algae as a base, it is then placed in a mould of the model's dress size. “I incorporate vitamin E and a coconut oil finish to enhance the skin’s surface” This effectively provides nourishment to the skin when wearing the garment. Once hardened the biomaterial is left to dry which can take up to three weeks. Mollie concluded that once the material has dried, it can be put together to make a garment, and the cycle can be reversed. “It is capable of being recycled and eaten. It can also be cooked and boiled down again to be reused, or it can be decomposed back into nature”.
Although it may appear to be simple, Mollie made it clear that handling biomaterials comes with many challenges. “The main issue I faced was mastering the consistency of the mixture that forms the biomaterial, This involved adapting the recipe to accommodate for the size and thickness of the garment, as well as a lot of trial and error in terms of the garments’ durability” she later explained that when struggling to create a workable formula, she reached out to UEA chemistry and biology students, who provided information on how to get the consistency correct as well as avoid mould.
The relationship Mollie has with nature and science fiction is seamlessly represented within her collection. The connection to her inner child is expressed through her visual interpretation of biomaterials. From fabrics to edible ingredients, the berry collection is intriguing yet weird. The collection features two dresses, one made from strawberry and the other from raspberries, both feel like leather to the touch. “I envision my garments as a second skin for the consumer, creating a microbiome relationship” She goes on to explain how they will be further developed “These pieces would be one of the archival designs, each different from the other and unique to each customer. I’m also looking to further develop different flavours as part of my berry collection”. A wider range of products within Mollies biome collection will add variety for consumers to pick from, giving the perfect alternative to unsustainable garments.
As for Mollie, the future looks bright, she aims to further research and development after university, holding hope that someday the fashion industry will rely more on biomaterials” I hope to have a studio where I can further my project by working on commissioned pieces for clients and creating new designs and silhouettes while improving on sustainability and the nourishing properties of the biomaterial” Although Biomaterial may not be stocking our shelves just yet, the research is all there and with time we hope to see it more prominent within the industry. The possibilities are simply endless for biomaterials but the activity within this area is limited. Designers like Mollie are paving the way for a new generation of conscious creatives.
